by LARRY HALL
AUSTRIA – The cuckoo called just as I settled over my approach shot. Not from a clock tower. Not from a recording hidden somewhere near the clubhouse. From the mountains themselves.
For a moment, I froze, club in hand, staring toward the steep alpine walls that rise almost vertically from the fairways of Nassfeld Golf Course. Somewhere high above, hidden among the forests that cloak the Austrian Alps, the bird called again… Cuckoo!
It was my first day golfing in Carinthia, Austria’s southernmost state, and already the destination was challenging my senses and every expectation I had brought with me.
Most travelers associate Austria with snow-covered peaks, world-class skiing, and imperial cities. Yet when winter releases its grip on the Alps, another side of the country emerges. Lakes sparkle beneath mountain summits, hiking trails replace ski runs, and some of Europe’s most scenic golf courses come into their own.
Located where Austria meets Italy and Slovenia, Carinthia has quietly evolved into one of Europe’s most compelling summer golf destinations. It’s a place where golfers can play championship courses framed by alpine scenery, dine beside crystal-clear lakes, and spend their evenings in luxury hotels that feel worlds removed from everyday life.
My wife Katherine and I recently spent a week exploring this remarkable region, staying at two Falkensteiner properties and playing several of Carinthia’s most celebrated courses. What we discovered was a destination that deserves a place on every golfer’s bucket list.
Before heading south, we paused for two days in Vienna. Austria’s capital could easily occupy visitors for a week, with its imperial architecture, museums, and café culture. For Katherine, however, the highlight was the Volksgarten, where more than 3,000 rose bushes transform the historic gardens into a sea of color during the warmer months.
From Vienna, a three-hour train journey carried us steadily upward into the Alps. Outside the windows, the landscape shifted from rolling countryside to increasingly dramatic mountain terrain, offering a preview of the scenery that awaited us in Carinthia.
A Luxury Base in the Mountains
Our first stop was Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Carinzia, located in the village of Tröpolach at the foot of the renowned Nassfeld mountain region. It was here that we were greeted by our hosts Anna Granitzer, representing the Falkensteiner Hotels, and Markus Polessnig, representing Karnten Golf.
During winter, skiers flock here to enjoy the Nassfeld Ski Resort, one of Austria’s largest ski areas. In summer, however, the same mountains become a playground for golfers, hikers, cyclists, and outdoor enthusiasts.
The hotel serves as an ideal base for exploring the region. Contemporary alpine design blends comfortably with mountain views, while expansive wellness facilities – including indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, steam baths, and relaxation areas – provide welcome recovery after a day on the golf course or ski slopes.
This unique 4-star superior hotel offers stylish, modern rooms with balconies and seating areas. The hotel’s restaurant serves international cuisine and traditional Austrian Slow Food dishes. In summer, guests will receive the +Card holiday Nassfeld, which offers many free benefits and discounts in the region.
Another great advantage of staying in Carinthia is access to the Alpe-Adria-Golf Card, offered by Karnten Golf, which includes discounted rounds of golf at 15 highly regarded courses across Austria, Italy, and Slovenia. Remarkably, golfers staying in the region can easily play in three different countries on three consecutive days – a uniquely European golfing experience made possible by Carinthia’s strategic location at the crossroads of the Alps.
Golf Between the Mountains
Our first round of golf took place at Nassfeld Golf by Falkensteiner, a course unlike any I have encountered in my five decades of golfing. Many mountain courses occupy broad valleys. Nassfeld sits in a valley so narrow that it feels as though the mountains intentionally stepped aside to create just enough room for fairways and greens.
Towering peaks rise dramatically – so close from both sides of the course, I wanted to reach out of the cart and touch the mountain. Every hole is framed by rugged mountain scenery, creating a sense of intimacy rarely found in alpine golf.
Well-positioned bunkers, water hazards, and subtle elevation changes challenge players to think carefully about every shot. The result is a layout that is surprisingly strategic and rewards precision while remaining enjoyable for golfers of varying skill levels.
My most memorable moment, however, had nothing to do with golf.
As I prepared to play my second shot on the fifth hole, I heard a familiar sound drifting through the valley. “Cuckoo. Cuckoo. Cuckoo.” Being American, my only previous encounters with cuckoos had involved clocks. I actually assumed the club had installed a cuckoo clock somewhere on the property. Later, another golfer asked our Austrian playing partner if the sound was coming from a bird. “Yes, it is a real cuckoo bird,” he laughed.
The realization that I was hearing the very bird that inspired centuries of Austrian clockmaking remains one of my favorite memories from the trip.
And while Nassfeld appears relatively forgiving on the scorecard, appearances can be deceiving. Of all the courses we played in Carinthia, this one handed me my highest score.
A Course Designed for Champions
The following morning, after a hearty buffet-style breakfast in the hotel restaurant, we headed to Golf Club Schloss Finkenstein, a distinctly different challenge. Where Nassfeld feels dramatic and enclosed, Finkenstein unfolds across rolling terrain in classic parkland style. Wider fairways, mature trees, and strategically placed water hazards create a course that demands thoughtful course management.
Designed by renowned architect Robert Trent Jones Jr., the course has hosted numerous professional events and remains one of Austria’s most respected golfing venues.
Several downhill par-three holes provide unforgettable views while testing club selection, but the star attraction is undoubtedly the finishing hole.
The par-five 18th presents golfers with a classic risk-reward dilemma. A well-struck drive leaves an opportunity to reach the green in two, but a 200-yard carry over the lake protects the approach. Aggressive players can attempt the heroic shot. More prudent golfers will lay up and rely on a precise wedge.
Either way, the hole delivers a memorable conclusion.
A Castle on the Austrian Riviera
Following our round, we traveled west to the shores of Lake Wörthersee and one of the most impressive 5-star hotels I have ever visited.
Falkensteiner Schloss Hotel Velden rises dramatically from the lakefront like something from a fairy tale. The golden-hued castle dates to 1590 and once served as the residence of Count Bartholomäus Khevenhüller. Today, it is one of Austria’s most celebrated luxury hotels and a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.
The property’s transformation from an aristocratic residence to a contemporary five-star retreat has been masterfully executed. Historic architecture coexists seamlessly with modern luxury, while guest rooms overlook either the castle grounds or the shimmering waters of Lake Wörthersee.
The courtyard rooms feature a more modern design, offering a sitting area with a couch and chairs, and a separate bedroom, divided by a see-through fireplace. Each room also includes a balcony with chairs for morning coffee and breathing the fresh mountain air.
All rooms feature digital panels to manage everything, from the lighting and the televisions to the climate control and even the automated curtains. The bathrooms, lately the focus of any highend hotel room, are suitably vast, offering double sinks, a soaking tub, and a separate rainshower.
The hotel’s expansive Acquapura Lake SPA further enhances the experience, offering 37,000 square feet of wellness facilities that rival anything found in other European destinations.
Once settled into our luxurious new residence, exploring the lakeside was a given. The water’s edge gracefully wanders into the village, where casual shopping and several restaurants can easily occupy an afternoon.
The lake itself has earned the nickname “Austria’s Riviera,” and it’s easy to understand why.
During summer, sailboats and speedboats crisscross the water while visitors gather along the waterfront to enjoy sunshine, swimming, and outdoor dining. Adding to the Monte Carlo feel, Casino Velden sits directly on the lake and provides gaming enthusiasts and connoisseurs of elegant leisure with a unique alpine experience.
Dining on the Lake
If Schloss Hotel Velden is the crown, then its Seespitz Restaurant is surely the crown jewel.
Situated directly on the lakefront, the Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant enjoys one of the most spectacular dining settings in Austria. Floor-to-ceiling open-air vistas and an expansive terrace ensure uninterrupted views of the lake and surrounding mountains.
Here, regional ingredients are elevated through contemporary techniques while remaining rooted in Austrian Slow Food culinary traditions. Every course felt thoughtfully conceived, beautifully presented, and perfectly paired with Austrian wines. We dined at Seespitz on three separate evenings, and each experience surpassed the last. Still, if asked to choose a favorite, I would happily return for another perfectly prepared Wiener Schnitzel.
One evening brought an unexpected surprise.
Joining us for dinner was Franz Klammer, Austria’s legendary Olympic downhill skiing champion. His dramatic gold-medal victory at the 1976 Winter Olympics remains one of the defining moments in Austrian sporting history.
Over dinner and lunch the next day, Klammer shared stories from his racing career and spoke about the deep connection Austrians feel toward their mountains. It was the kind of encounter that cannot be planned and becomes unforgettable travel lore.
Arriving by Boat
Our final golfing experience may have been the most memorable of all. Instead of loading clubs into a car, we loaded them into a boat.
Crossing Lake Wörthersee by speedboat as morning sunlight danced across the water, we headed toward Kärntner Golf Club Dellach, one of Austria’s oldest and most prestigious golf clubs.
The journey took only minutes, yet it felt wonderfully cinematic.
Founded in 1927, Club Dellach has welcomed generations of golfers, including the Duke of Windsor. The course occupies a spectacular position along the lake’s southern shore, where fairways climb and descend through dramatic terrain framed by sweeping alpine vistas.
Several holes offer breathtaking views across Lake Wörthersee, while others demand precise shot-making through narrow landing areas and significant elevation changes.
Of the three courses we played, Dellach was arguably the most demanding and definitely the favored choice of the group. Ironically, it was also where I recorded my best score of the week.
The course concludes with a memorable par-three finishing hole, overlooked by the clubhouse terrace. As our group gathered there afterward for one final meal, we relived the week’s best shots, worst shots, and countless moments in between.
Why Carinthia Belongs on Every Golfer’s Bucket List
As our visit came to an end, I found myself reflecting on how many golfers overlook Austria when planning overseas golf adventures. That may be Carinthia’s greatest advantage. Here, golfers can spend unhurried mornings playing championship courses beneath towering alpine peaks, their afternoons cruising across crystal-clear lakes, and their evenings dining in Michelin-recognized restaurants before retiring to world-class hotels.
The golf alone justifies the journey. The scenery, hospitality, cuisine, and unmistakable sense of place are what make Carinthia unforgettable.
For travelers seeking a European golf destination that combines spectacular courses, luxury accommodations, and authentic alpine charm, Austria’s southern frontier may be the continent’s best-kept secret.
To learn more about golf in Austria, and perhaps add a trip there to your bucket list, information about golf packages in Carinthia can be found below:
https://www.falkensteiner.com/en/hotel-spa-carinzia
https://www.falkensteiner.com/en/schlosshotel-velden
https://www.visitcarinthia.at/golf/
PHOTOS: Katherine Hall
(Larry Hall, a Jacksonville, Florida-based golf writer, is a member of Golf Heritage Society, Golf Writers Association of America, Historical Writers of America, International Network of Golf and Golf Travel Writers of America. He can be reached at: bgtriptips@gmail.com)
